Maya Njie

photo illustration of Minnie Riperton by theminx

I had heard Suzy Nightingale mention Maya Nije's fragrances more than once on the On the Scent podcast, and of course she recommended Vanilj to me in a fragrant prescription. I desperately wanted to try the line but wasn't even sure I'd be able to get hold of samples. Lucky me, the company very recently started shipping to the US--in fact, I received an email saying I was one of their first US customers.

Maya Nije, of Scandinavian and Gambian heritage, started her line in 2016. Fascinated by photographs from the 60s and 70s and their faded color palettes, she wondered what those pictures would smell like. And so she made those photos come to life. 

As a self-taught perfumer, her practice was developed through experimentation; the blending of raw materials with a variety of essential oils, aroma compounds and resins; nature and science combining in autobiographical fragrances. Maya’s olfactory identity draws inspiration from her upbringing, as well as an archive of intimate family photographs from the 1960s; the small Swedish summer house surrounded by mercurial forests, the visits to her grandparents’ sparsely furnished flat on Sunday afternoons, Uncle Lars' and Aunt Erene’s wedding. A bottling of a time, place and spirit.

included in the discovery set were these reproductions of family
 photos with descriptions of each scent on the backs.

A lovely concept, and some lovely scents.

Les Fleurs

Bergamot, Neroli, Pulpy Fig, Citrusy Magnolia, Floral Musk, Unwilted Wood

This scent takes me back nearly 40 years to sleepovers at my then-best friend's house, where I would camp out on the floor in the room she shared with her younger sister. The room smelled of her shampoo and the whole house smelled of her father's cigarettes. I am guessing that the "unwilted" wood note is what might be evoking the nicotine for me. It's not very strong, more of a suggestion lurking beyond the huge floral muskiness of it all. I am also reminded of Faberge Babe, which I wore from time to time in the late 70s--early 80s. Inspired by Minnie Riperton's 1970 song by the same name, Les Fleurs is a well-blended evocation of big hair, lip gloss, fun times, and youth.

Nordic Cedar

Cardamom, Patchouli, Musk, Cedarwood, Ambergris

I've never smelled anything like this before. Nordic Cedar starts out underwater, as if the solid forms of cardamom pods, patchouli leaves, and cedar branches are submerged in a body of fresh water. There's nothing marine about this scent at all, mind you, it's merely watery. After a few moments, the water effect evaporates, so to speak, revealing the scent of fresh lumber dusted with ground cardamom over a lightly musky base. 

Tobak

Tobacco Leaf, Vetiver, Cinnamon, Tonka, Musk, Leather

The first sniff of Tobak took my husband back to barbershops of his youth, with their scents of pomades, hair oils, and that powder they put on and brushed off the back of necks to make sure there weren't any itchy hairs left behind. And cigarette smoke, of course, because everyone smoked back then. The scent was actually inspired by Maya's memories of her grandfather's apartment, which smelled of pipe tobacco and the cinnamon buns her mom would bake to take on visits. And while it leans masculine, I think anyone could wear it. Tobak is pleasantly warm and cozy, yet light, and would be perfect in the cooler months.

Tropica

Citrus, Pineapple, Mediterranean Fig, Iris, Coconut, Ambergris, Sandalwood

I am sunning myself on a lounge chair somewhere on the Mediterranean coast, cold drink in hand, reminiscing about the pina coladas of a long ago Hawaiian vacation. Right now, however, the breeze is wafting the scent of figs my way. Though fig and coconut play quite nicely together, I am immediately snapped out of my tropical reverie. Tropica's juicy pineapple note fades too quickly for my liking and is replaced by fig. While not a favorite note of mine, I appreciate that the fig in Tropica is more creamy than green (or dusty, as I perceive fig in some cases). The sandalwood in the drydown is subtle and really allows the fig to shine. Some might dismiss Tropica as a "beachy" scent, but I'm betting that it is quite cozy in the colder months as well as a great scent for summer.

Vanilj

Vanilla, Cardamom, Patchouli, Musk, Cedarwood, Amber

Vanilj is Nordic Cedar with the added surprise of vanilla. Rather than starting out underwater, the spicy and woody elements of Vanilj are submerged in a bowl of warm milk flavored with vanilla and just the barest hint of sweetness. Though the name of the scent is vanilla in Swedish, the cardamom and cedarwood are nearly as strong. Totally unisex and completely delicious. 

Voyeur Verde

Bergamot, Mandarin, Cypress, Rosewood, Fennel, Iris, Ylang Ylang, Patchouli, Leather, Cedarwood, Frankincense

This opens with a blast of green that is both sharp and dry, almost a bit like turpentine, but not quite. Personally, I love the smell of turpentine, as it takes me back to my art school days. (This turps scent is not as noticeable on my skin, sadly.) I can then smell the iris--but not the ylang ylang--which marries beautifully with the leather. The drydown is rather like a pair of brand new leather gloves that come packaged in a box lined with cedarwood. I can detect a bit of incense as well, but the leather predominates on my skin as well as on paper. I'd say the scent is fairly unisex but that it leans toward masculine. 

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks