Chanel Les Exclusifs - First Thoughts, ca. 2007

There are, what? seventeen fragrances in Chanel's Les Exclusifs collection these days. Back when they were first released, in 2007, there were only six. Before I sniffed those, I was not a Chanel gal at all. I did not appreciate No. 5 (still don't, though I do like and own Eau Premiere). I had a brief flirtation with Coco, which was my "out-on-the-town" scent in the early/mid-90s. (I still wear it on rare occasion, but it's just so pungent.) The Les Exclusifs were different though, not necessarily more approachable to my nascent palate, but more interesting maybe? In any case, these were my earliest thoughts on the line.

Currently, I own bottles of No. 18 and Coromandel, and large decants of 31 Rue Cambon and Eau de Cologne.
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Today I got my hands on samples from the eagerly-awaited Chanel Exclusifs line. I was so excited, I could barely wait until dinner was over so I could rush to my office and test them. (My husband always makes a lovely dinner and it would be cruel to make him wait while I overindulge my already spoiled olfactory sense.) Let me tell you it was well worth the wait.

No.18
Notes: ambrette seed

No. 18 starts off with a slightly musty and dry note with a vegetal quality, vaguely metallic, like a root of some sort, with a non-spicy white pepper edge (a la L'Artisan Poivre Piquant perhaps). Soon a musky soapiness reveals itself, sweetish and very pleasant. The drydown has a heavier musk smell, that of the ambrette, with a bit of funk. Not unpleasant mind you, like dirty underpants or sweaty men (although I hear some people like that sort of thing), just a little animalic.

Coromandel
Notes: amber, vanilla, patchouli

A sweet and powdery oriental with tinges of leather, a dash of something akin to orange peel, some spice, some smoke, and a soft vanilla with a dash of patchouli. It reminds me a bit of both Anné Pliska and Fifi Chachnil, but without the former's "mature" quality (on me - I know it has lots of fans) and sans the rose of the latter. Not as spicy or bold a scent as I expected, but more refined and ladylike.

Eau de Cologne
Notes: musk, neroli, vetiver, bergamot, citrus

Eau de Cologne opens with sweet and bright citrus notes that dries down to a very aromatic and musky neroli fragrance. Simple, fairly straightforward, and completely delicious.

31 Rue Cambon
Notes: iris, labdanum, jasmine, sandalwood

This fragrance is an oakmoss-free chypre that opens with a very dry and peppery note that has an earthy, dirt-like metallic tang, somewhat like carrots. The scent then becomes more floral, with a musky and leathery tone. There's a very Chanel quality to this scent--elegant, expensive, complex. The only Chanel I ever wore was Coco, in the 80s, and although the scents are different, they are connected in my mind. 31 Rue Cambon has a nice bit of patchouli in the drydown, an earthy sensuousness that is not unpleasant, although my husband thought it had a suggestion of body odor. Try it and judge for yourself. I'm not a big fan of chypres, but as I quite like this one, it must be oakmoss that I don't care for. (I am a heretic, I know.)

Bel Respiro
Notes: hyacinth, fresh cut grass, galbanum, crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh, leather

A crisp green fragrance, "intended to evoke stems, leaves and springtime," Bel Respiro opens with just that stemmy-ness. Then there is a rush of notes, as if walking through a garden full of herbs and fragrant blooms on a hot summer's day while drinking a glass of iced green tea sweetened with honey. Bel Respiro reminds me a bit of Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca, without the mint. It's very pleasant, sweet and green, with the honeyed note becoming more prevalent in the drydown.

28 La Pausa
Notes: orris

This elegant and chilly scent opens with the same sort of earthy root smell as 31 Rue Cambon, then becomes a mild white floral. I really can't find a whole lot to say about this one; I think it's pretty unremarkable, and the scent is not particularly long-lasting. Meh.

I'm actually pretty surprised that I like 5 of the 6 scents, although I personally consider only one of them worthy of joining my collection as a full bottle--Coromandel.

Originally posted on Sniffapalooza Magazine.

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks