Parfum Gourmand Collection by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur

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Since 2020, I've regularly participated in online master classes through either Sniffapalooza or Beautyhabit and until recently had never sniffed any of the samples in advance. I wanted to write about Nicolai Parfumeur Createur's Parfum Gourmand collection for the blog, so I thought that this one time I'd have an advance sniff. Besides, it's much easier to take notes and really concentrate on the fragrances without someone speaking in the background (though I've had to listen to my bigmouth neighbor talk most of the day; our walls are like paper).

When I write about a fragrance, I start the process by going to Fragrantica and pulling up the notes for each scent before scrolling down to read the comments. There is usually a mix of opinions from members who are snobs, noobs, bros, and wanna-bes, plus a handful of folks who genuinely have a good sense of smell and tell it like it is. Since these three scents are allegedly gourmands, I figured that they'd have a good number of positive comments. People like gourmands, particularly well-crafted ones, so I was unprepared for the negativity around these perfumes. Some comments made Macaron Bourbon and Pavlova seem downright scary. 

"Synthetic, obnoxious, loud, disgusting, and just cruel to the nose."

"How can a 'Macaron' fragrance be so terrible!?? SCRUBBER!!!"

"Overly sweet synthetic mess. NO"

"It really smells like something I got in the summer from Bath and Body Works."

"There is a special place in hell and in my trash can for this sample."

Wow, don't hold back. Tell us what you really think. Thankfully, these fragrances weren't as terrible as these comments might suggest. 

Based on the notes alone, I figured I'd like Saint Honoré the most, followed by Pavlova and Macaron Bourbon. Pavlova did indeed come in second place, but the other two switched places. Sadly, I really hated Saint Honoré. Read on for more.

Macaron Bourbon Intense

Rum, Bitter Almond, Davana, Rose, Cinnamon, Clove, Patchouli, Caramel, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Musk

As I've learned from the Great British Bake Off, one should use the barest drop of rose essence in baking, otherwise the end result could taste like soap. While Macaron Bourbon doesn't smell like soap, it does smell like too much rose. But then, I am often on the fence about rose notes. I'm assuming that this fragrance is supposed to evoke a rose-flavored macaron, perhaps one with a spicy caramel filling, but it does not. I would say this was a rose fragrance, not a gourmand fragrance, though it is sweet. The rose note is too much like the actual flower with a touch of green and thorns. I think a softer, rosewater-like, note would have hit the confection mark more accurately. In any case, I am mostly quibbling with the name of the scent compared to the way it actually smells. This perfume, taken on its own, is fine: a pretty rose scent with a sweet vanilla drydown. It's not in any way horrifying, as the Fragrantica reviewers would like us to believe, but it's not my cup of tea.

Pavlova Intense

Pineapple, Passionfruit, Rum, Peach, Coconut, Raspberry, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Cedar

This one is not scary, either. I've never had a pavlova with tropical fruits, but I'm sure it would be delicious. This Pavlova is light and airy, like meringue. The fruit notes are nice, with the pineapple and passionfruit coming out first, and eventually the raspberry. Overall, though, it's giving Fruit Stripe gum (do they still make that?) or very sweet shampoo. This fragrance is quite youthful, though not as sweet as half the stuff marketed toward young people. Sadly, the drydown is not particularly interesting on paper. I tried it on my skin but found that the fruits aren't as distinct and the scent is otherwise rather generic. Too bad, because I actually did sorta like this one.

Saint Honoré Intense

Pepper, Bergamot, Hazelnut, Milk, Orange Blossom, Vanilla Absolute, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

I saved the best for last, or so I thought. The list of notes makes it sound perfect for me; this scent also received the most positive comments. But it was hate at first sniff. I don't know if it's the pepper or the hazelnut, or a combination of everything that makes Saint Honoré smell like root beer. But that's on paper. I couldn't believe this wasn't going to be delicious on skin, so I sprayed some on the back of my hand. The hazelnut note comes out right away; it's buttery and nutty and delicious and lasts about 15 seconds. And then it's root beer. Oh, and I do not like root beer, which makes this a scrubber for me. 

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks
Note: this post is my opinion. I am not affiliated with the companies mentioned in this post or any other companies.

Sexy Scents: Andy Warhol Silver Factory

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Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Lavender, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Incense, Iris, Violet, Jasmine, Resins, Cedar, Amber

It might not make sense to post about fragrances that have been discontinued. But as it turns out, most of the perfumes I love the most have been taken off the market. I can't post about things I haven't smelled, and I'm not the kind of person who has to experience the latest frag as soon as it hits the shops. I'm old, not trendy. Anyhoo, it's quite sad that Bond No. 9 discontinued Andy Warhol Silver Factory because it was a stunning unisex floral amber, and one of the sexiest perfumes I've ever smelled. 

We all have differing opinions on what is sexy. For some, sexy might involve lacy lingerie, voluptuous floral scents, vanilla notes. For me, it's incense, amber, and the twist of violet. Aurélien Guichard is the nose behind this scent, and he's pretty sexy stuff himself. Though Warhol himself preferred the old-school florals of Estee Lauder's Beautiful (and allegedly had a bottle of it buried with him), Guichard created something very different, evoking Warhol's famed aluminum-foil-papered 47th Street studio, nicknamed "the Silver Factory."

While I consider Silver Factory sexy, I'd consider it a cool, not warm, fragrance. The silvery incense is responsible for a lot of that sensation, but also the lavender, citrus, and iris. But underneath that veneer of not-quite-metallic chill is the subtle warmth of amber. I don't know if other people smell it this way, but some non-sweet amber notes smell like olives to me. For example, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is very much a giant, oily, kalamata olive. Silver Factory has some of that going on, and it merges so well with the incense. I think people who are into "sexy church" fragrances would probably enjoy this quite a bit. But if Bond No. 9 hadn't discontinued this beauty, it would be hideously expensive--as all their scents are. (A couple years ago, I popped into the flagship shop at 9 Bond Street to have a sniff of the umpteen frags they've put out in the decade or so that had passed since I last shopped there. I asked the SA why their perfumes were so expensive. Her reply, "to give the impression of exclusivity." There you have it. They're expensive for the sake of being expensive.)

Other folks who loved this scent rejoice: there's an Etsy seller called ScentvillePerfumery that makes a pretty damn near identical dupe for a tenth of the price, $30 for 50ml. Since Silver Factory is no longer made, I figure recommending a dupe is ok. 

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks
Note: this post is my opinion. I am not affiliated with the companies mentioned in this post or any other companies.

Favorite Fragrance Purchases of 2024

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I bought a lot of perfume in 2024--what else is new? 

I do realize I have a problem, and mostly need to stop impulse buying. That's one of my "resolutions" for 2025. (I don't make capital-R resolutions. But I do try to do better. Sometimes.) In 2025, I'm going to try my darndest not to commit any blind buys, and to only buy fragrances that I really really need. Ok, want. Let's see how that goes, shall we? In the meantime, let me tell you a little about some of the fragrances I purchased in 2024 that I have worn and enjoyed the most. 

Buchart & Colbert Le Bain de Lulu was an early December purchase (which one might think would be the last purchase of the year, but no...).  Adding this scent to my collection was a bit of a departure for me. I'm not crazy about rose fragrances, but this one is more like rosewater than ROSE. It also smells like expensive soap, and I liked it--which surprised me. But I think I enjoyed the Valencia orange note the most. It's realistic and juicy, which is always what I seek but seldom find. 

D.S. & Durga Pistachio is just so yummy and cozy and has a fabulous patchouli drydown. It doesn't smell like pistachio to me, just honeyed creaminess that's not too sweet. I have happily oversprayed this for much of the last quarter of this year and likely will do the same into early spring. Read more about Pistachio here.

Naxos Apothecary Yria was a love-at-first-sniff purchase at the Spring Sniffapalooza event. Its bright and slightly weird pink peppercorn-Weetabix opening really grabbed me. Read more about it on this post from April.

Obvious Une Vanille is a blessedly not-too-sweet vanilla, almost a unicorn. I find so many vanilla sweets cloying and--unless I'm wearing it outdoors on a below-freezing day--gag-inducing. And I used to wear Pink Sugar back in the day! I don't know what's wrong with me, menopause probably. In any case, Une Vanille is a soft, somewhat powdery, vanilla that doesn't remind me of ice cream or other dessert-y things. It's definitely not a gourmand, especially not by my definition. I can just about wear this year-round.

The Maker Naked almost seems like it was created specifically for me. I love iris, and I love white musk, and IMHO this is the perfect iris musk fragrance. It's rooty with not only orris but also carrot, but soft, and somewhat creamy. I wore in all seasons but I think I prefer it in the warmer months. 

Trudon Revolution I bought this in April and couldn't wear it until November. Honestly, it was too warm to smell like a fireplace any earlier in the year. And now I want to smell like a fireplace all the time! It's such a great smoky scent, not at all harsh. I wrote more about it on this post. 

What were your favorite purchases of 2024? Tell me in the comments!

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks
Note: this post is my opinion. I am not affiliated with the companies mentioned in this post or any other companies.

Fragrance Trends for 2025

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I'm going to confess something that you probably already know: I am not a trendy person. I am never going to be the first person to try something new or jump on a bandwagon. Back when I was trying to be a food influencer--in those days pre-Instagram when blogging and writing skills were valued more than the ability to take a decent photograph or edit a reel, and certainly more than being "personalities" who are promoting themselves as much or more than any product or dining establishment--I attempted to visit new restaurants and try new food products as much as possible. But hey, I'm now a 59-year-old woman who is tired, frankly, of competing with all the newbies, the Instagrammers who have the nerve to call themselves "bloggers" when their captions are 20 words long, the ones who seem to promote the same handful of fragrance brands or products or restaurants. I am proudly set in my ways, happily and comfortably promote my favorite restaurants over and over again, and wear the same perfume brands I've been wearing for years, with few exceptions.

While I am never gonna race to my local Sephora to pick up a bottle of the latest overpriced, cloying, marshmallow-infused parfum, or pay $350 for a bottle of the latest woody amber concoction that everybody and their dog is raving over, I am somewhat curious about what the kids are wearing these days. Or what pundits predict they'll be wearing in the coming months. Let's take a look, shall we?

According to Cosmopolitan magazine, the trends for 2025 are "kinda weird," though I'm not seeing anything particularly wacky on their list. They predict folks will lean to the categories of cozy, nature-inspired--and no surprise here--gourmand. Also, branded frags from the usual celebs and cosmetic companies, but also fast food chains, will abound. Savory scents will be popular, as well as body sprays and what they're calling "scent maxxing," which includes layering same-scented creams and lotions over perfume, as well as the hideous fragrance bro propensity for olfactory torture known as "beast mode." 

Allure magazine agrees with Cosmo on the subject of savory scents. Interestingly, both mention Snif's Slice Society (which has a tomato-basil thing going on for all of 10 minutes before it becomes an obnoxious blackcurrant bomb). They also suggest that lactonic/milky fragrances will continue to be all the rage and will be jazzed up with coffee and tea notes. Fruity scents will be popular, particularly those featuring cherry and stone fruits, and that florals will have a comeback (though have they ever really gone away?) They also suggest that the mood-boosting scent category will continue to grow, slow-release fragrances will be a thing, and, happily, #beastmode will go away and be replaced by nuance. (HA! Call me skeptical.) They also believe that most brands will have a matching hair perfume for their scents, which I'm here for, as they tend to be far less-expensive than EDPs. 

New Beauty suggests there will be more demand for small-format packaging, as in travel sprays and discovery sets, that watermelon and matcha will be popular notes, and that gourmands will continue their reign of terror. There's another article on New Beauty that claims solid fragrance will be "one of the biggest fragrance trends for 2025." 

Who What Wear, in addition to the ubiquitous prediction of the continued popularity of fruity and gourmand scents, suggests fragrance layering will emerge as a trend for 2025. They also think more companies will produce hair fragrances. Another article on the site says we'll see more genderless scents, and musk, oud, and yuzu notes in the coming year.

Suzy and Nicola of the On the Scent Podcast feel that 2025 will bring us more coffee, matcha, milky, and rice notes.

So what do I think? 

1. Gourmands will continue their popularity.

People will continue to label sweet fragrances with lots of vanilla as "gourmand" scents, even if they don't smell of actual, recognizable, foodstuffs. There will be more caramel-, marshmallow-, and vanilla-based perfumes in tooth-aching quantities, many of which will be unrecognizable from their sugary predecessors. Mostly because of bandwagon whoreishness. That lack of originality will also lead to more milky fragrances from companies looking to create something to match the popularity of Bianco Latte, and even more cherry and pistachio scents. As for the true gourmand scents that will be released in 2025, I believe many will be informed by the fragrance of baked goods.

2. There will be more interesting vanilla fragrances, at least in the niche market.

Scents like Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder and Electimuss Vanilla Edesia showed that vanilla-based perfumes needn't be saccharine. In addition to a preponderance of vanilla gourmands in 2025, there will also be a strong selection of "grown-up" vanilla fragrances. 

3. Perfumes with predominant coffee, oud, and amber notes will abound.

Yay for coffee!

4. Beast Mode will not only not go away, it will become more popular.

As more and more young men get into fragrance, I believe competition will arise between them as to who can count the most time between their fragrance announcing their arrival and the moment the individual actually steps into the room. Middle and high school corridors will become battlefields, and female students will have no other recourse except to retaliate with their own fragrant stink bombs weapons.

5. Packaging will demonstrate real extremes.

Not only will there be more minimalist packaging of fragrances, a la Obvious Parfums with their cello-free, recyclable cardboard boxes, but it will also go the other way, with rather ridiculous and decorative plastic and wood "keepsake boxes" (aka dust-collecting tchotchkes) and attached metallic ornaments, like the Tiziana Terenzi Sea Star collection (so expensive, yet somehow their bottle labels look junky). Of course this means that prices will go up for those products, as someone has to pay for manufacturing the excess.

What do you think? Will my predictions be close? Leave a comment with your thoughts on the subject of trends in the fragrance world for 2025.

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks
Note: this post is my opinion. I am not affiliated with the companies mentioned in this post or any other companies.

Happy New Year!

created with Ideogram AI, Adobe Photoshop, and photographs

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Posted by theminx on Minxstinks
Note: this post is my opinion. I am not affiliated with the companies mentioned in this post or any other companies.